Another fine Mad Ants win the other day against the Maine Red Claws. We can't seem to beat anyone else this season, but we simply own these guys and they are one of the top teams in the D-League. Perhaps we simply match up well against them, or more likely the Red Claws chronically underestimate us. Assuming the latter, I'd like to discuss a wine varietal that is also often underestimated (and coincidentally pairs perfectly with lobster!): chardonnay.
Too often I hear wine drinkers say, "I am not a fan of chardonnay because they are all too rich and buttery for me." Though many California wineries end up with buttery chardonnays that are loaded with yeast and oak flavors, the grape is actually one of the most versatile, if not the most versatile varietal on the planet. With varied winemaking techniques, chardonnay can be light and refreshing, deep and complex, fruit-forward or even find itself made into a sparkling wine.
To create the butter bombs for which they are famous, California winemakers use three techniques: new oak barrels, malolactic fermentation and aging the wine on its lees. Aging chardonnay in oak barrels is no different than wineries in Burgundy or Washington State; however, by using relatively new oak barrels, Californians ensure that their wines are imparted with a strong oak flavor. By contrast, Burgundian and Washington chardonnays are aged on older oak that will give them a more mellow flavor.
The second technique California wineries use is malolactic fermentation, which is a second fermentation that converts malic acid (which gives some wines a sharper acidity) to lactic acid (which is much softer and smoother). This second fermentation often lends a softer and more full-bodied mouthfeel to the wine. Malolactic fermentation is common in red wines, but its use with white wines depends on the region. Again, many French and Washington wineries use this technique, but in varying degrees.
The final technique used by California winemakers to give their chardonnay its distinctive buttery taste is to age their wines on the lees. Lees are the dead yeast left after fermentation. While most wines are separated from the lees before they are aged, some wines, such as many California chardonnays, are left to age with the lees so that they take on a strong yeasty flavor.
In contrast to California, other wine growing regions do not often use all of the above techniques, though they will use one or two of them. Washington State wineries, for example, use malolactic fermentation but do not often use new oak barrels and do not often age their wines on the lees. As a result, Washington chardonnay typically has a brighter, more fruity taste to it.
Australia also uses some malolactic fermentation, but many Australian wineries use no oak at all on their wines, instead choosing to age them in steel vats. Such chardonnays are marketed as "unoaked" or "naked" chardonnays and with their bright citrus flavors are more similar to sauvignon blanc than to buttery California chardonnay.
While much of this is more than you need to know about chardonnay, the important take-away from this post is that chardonnay is no simple wine. Depending on the region from which your chardonnay comes, you are likely to find a style of chardonnay to fit any meal or occasion. Unoaked chardonnays from Australia (note that I am generalizing the regions here, and you should be able to find unoaked chardonnay from every chardonay-growing region in the world) are great for warm summer evenings, and even rival vinho verde in their refreshing qualities. Rich and buttery chardonnays from California make for great food pairings with white-sauce dishes. Washington and Burgundian chardonnays, with their soft mouthfeel and bright fruit flavors often pair very well with salads.
If you are one of the many winedrinkers who underestimate chardonnay, take my word for it and crack a few bottles from different regions. It may take a few tries to experience all of the different types, as wineries using malolactic fermentation and aging their wines on the lees will not mention this on the label. Unoaked wines, however, will often shout loudly about it, so you can either read the labels yourself or ask the wine steward or sommelier for an unoaked bottle.
Too often I hear wine drinkers say, "I am not a fan of chardonnay because they are all too rich and buttery for me." Though many California wineries end up with buttery chardonnays that are loaded with yeast and oak flavors, the grape is actually one of the most versatile, if not the most versatile varietal on the planet. With varied winemaking techniques, chardonnay can be light and refreshing, deep and complex, fruit-forward or even find itself made into a sparkling wine.
To create the butter bombs for which they are famous, California winemakers use three techniques: new oak barrels, malolactic fermentation and aging the wine on its lees. Aging chardonnay in oak barrels is no different than wineries in Burgundy or Washington State; however, by using relatively new oak barrels, Californians ensure that their wines are imparted with a strong oak flavor. By contrast, Burgundian and Washington chardonnays are aged on older oak that will give them a more mellow flavor.
The second technique California wineries use is malolactic fermentation, which is a second fermentation that converts malic acid (which gives some wines a sharper acidity) to lactic acid (which is much softer and smoother). This second fermentation often lends a softer and more full-bodied mouthfeel to the wine. Malolactic fermentation is common in red wines, but its use with white wines depends on the region. Again, many French and Washington wineries use this technique, but in varying degrees.
The final technique used by California winemakers to give their chardonnay its distinctive buttery taste is to age their wines on the lees. Lees are the dead yeast left after fermentation. While most wines are separated from the lees before they are aged, some wines, such as many California chardonnays, are left to age with the lees so that they take on a strong yeasty flavor.
In contrast to California, other wine growing regions do not often use all of the above techniques, though they will use one or two of them. Washington State wineries, for example, use malolactic fermentation but do not often use new oak barrels and do not often age their wines on the lees. As a result, Washington chardonnay typically has a brighter, more fruity taste to it.
Australia also uses some malolactic fermentation, but many Australian wineries use no oak at all on their wines, instead choosing to age them in steel vats. Such chardonnays are marketed as "unoaked" or "naked" chardonnays and with their bright citrus flavors are more similar to sauvignon blanc than to buttery California chardonnay.
While much of this is more than you need to know about chardonnay, the important take-away from this post is that chardonnay is no simple wine. Depending on the region from which your chardonnay comes, you are likely to find a style of chardonnay to fit any meal or occasion. Unoaked chardonnays from Australia (note that I am generalizing the regions here, and you should be able to find unoaked chardonnay from every chardonay-growing region in the world) are great for warm summer evenings, and even rival vinho verde in their refreshing qualities. Rich and buttery chardonnays from California make for great food pairings with white-sauce dishes. Washington and Burgundian chardonnays, with their soft mouthfeel and bright fruit flavors often pair very well with salads.
If you are one of the many winedrinkers who underestimate chardonnay, take my word for it and crack a few bottles from different regions. It may take a few tries to experience all of the different types, as wineries using malolactic fermentation and aging their wines on the lees will not mention this on the label. Unoaked wines, however, will often shout loudly about it, so you can either read the labels yourself or ask the wine steward or sommelier for an unoaked bottle.
Awesome info. Peter and I hate overdone oakiness (sp?) in a Chardonnay, and I will have to start asking for naked varieties!
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