Tuesday, March 23, 2010

Chardonnay. Great for Lobster.

Another fine Mad Ants win the other day against the Maine Red Claws. We can't seem to beat anyone else this season, but we simply own these guys and they are one of the top teams in the D-League. Perhaps we simply match up well against them, or more likely the Red Claws chronically underestimate us. Assuming the latter, I'd like to discuss a wine varietal that is also often underestimated (and coincidentally pairs perfectly with lobster!): chardonnay.

Too often I hear wine drinkers say, "I am not a fan of chardonnay because they are all too rich and buttery for me." Though many California wineries end up with buttery chardonnays that are loaded with yeast and oak flavors, the grape is actually one of the most versatile, if not the most versatile varietal on the planet. With varied winemaking techniques, chardonnay can be light and refreshing, deep and complex, fruit-forward or even find itself made into a sparkling wine.

To create the butter bombs for which they are famous, California winemakers use three techniques: new oak barrels, malolactic fermentation and aging the wine on its lees. Aging chardonnay in oak barrels is no different than wineries in Burgundy or Washington State; however, by using relatively new oak barrels, Californians ensure that their wines are imparted with a strong oak flavor. By contrast, Burgundian and Washington chardonnays are aged on older oak that will give them a more mellow flavor.

The second technique California wineries use is malolactic fermentation, which is a second fermentation that converts malic acid (which gives some wines a sharper acidity) to lactic acid (which is much softer and smoother). This second fermentation often lends a softer and more full-bodied mouthfeel to the wine. Malolactic fermentation is common in red wines, but its use with white wines depends on the region. Again, many French and Washington wineries use this technique, but in varying degrees.

The final technique used by California winemakers to give their chardonnay its distinctive buttery taste is to age their wines on the lees. Lees are the dead yeast left after fermentation. While most wines are separated from the lees before they are aged, some wines, such as many California chardonnays, are left to age with the lees so that they take on a strong yeasty flavor.

In contrast to California, other wine growing regions do not often use all of the above techniques, though they will use one or two of them. Washington State wineries, for example, use malolactic fermentation but do not often use new oak barrels and do not often age their wines on the lees. As a result, Washington chardonnay typically has a brighter, more fruity taste to it.

Australia also uses some malolactic fermentation, but many Australian wineries use no oak at all on their wines, instead choosing to age them in steel vats. Such chardonnays are marketed as "unoaked" or "naked" chardonnays and with their bright citrus flavors are more similar to sauvignon blanc than to buttery California chardonnay.

While much of this is more than you need to know about chardonnay, the important take-away from this post is that chardonnay is no simple wine. Depending on the region from which your chardonnay comes, you are likely to find a style of chardonnay to fit any meal or occasion. Unoaked chardonnays from Australia (note that I am generalizing the regions here, and you should be able to find unoaked chardonnay from every chardonay-growing region in the world) are great for warm summer evenings, and even rival vinho verde in their refreshing qualities. Rich and buttery chardonnays from California make for great food pairings with white-sauce dishes. Washington and Burgundian chardonnays, with their soft mouthfeel and bright fruit flavors often pair very well with salads.

If you are one of the many winedrinkers who underestimate chardonnay, take my word for it and crack a few bottles from different regions. It may take a few tries to experience all of the different types, as wineries using malolactic fermentation and aging their wines on the lees will not mention this on the label. Unoaked wines, however, will often shout loudly about it, so you can either read the labels yourself or ask the wine steward or sommelier for an unoaked bottle.

Tuesday, March 16, 2010

Spring day means Vinho Verde!

It's game day in Fort Wayne - Mad Ants v. Maine Red Claws - but what's really important is the sunny 60 degrees that is going on outside. I like to think of myself as fairly hardy when it comes to winter weather, but Fort Wayne winters are particularly tortuous. Needless to say, today's sunshine is a welcome respite.

So, with the sun beaming through my office window, I want to talk about a great warm weather wine - Vinho Verde. Although its name literally means "green wine", it can actually be a red or a white wine, with whites made from Albario, Loureiro or Trajadura grapes being the best representatives of the class. Rather than referencing the color of the wine, "green" refers to the relatively young age at which these wines are made to drink - typically within the first year after bottling. As a result of their youthfulness, vinho verde wines have a very light and fresh taste that works well as an aperitif on a summer day (or on a 60 degree day that feels like summer because it's been 5 months since you've seen the sun).

In addition to being a great tasting wine, it doesn't hurt that vinho verdes are quite inexpensive, with most bottles falling in the $8-12 range. My favorite bottle is from Broadbent, a widely available bottle that retails for around $11. The highly level of acidity and the bright citrus flavors of this wine are perfect for grilled lime chicken and fresh summer vegetables, like radishes and cucumbers. Combine this wine with that meal, add a sunny day and some friends on the patio and you've got a great thing going on.

Not my usual detail for a blog, but vinho verde's simple pleasures aren't cut out for a long-winded explanation. Simply wait for the sunshine, pop a cork (or twist a screw) and enjoy. In the meantime, I'm going to go sit in the sun for a few minutes before I head over to get ready for tonight's game.